MALANA – A LOST UTOPIA IN THE HIMALAYAS
Chanderkhani Pass Trek Malana
Overview
Malana – A Lost Utopia in the Himalayas – By Dr. Virendra Bangroo –
Below the Chanderkhani pass of the Kullu valley lies a small cluster of around two hundred stone roof houses constituting a village called Malana. Its inimitable culture and the temple of Jamlu distinguish the village. The village consists of around 1500 inhabitants and has an impeccable system of administration with a higher and lower court guided by the spirit of the village god Jamlu. Malana stands out as an autonomous self-sufficient unit whose inhabitants claim Greek ancestry. Some stories about the village called “a little Greece,” this village in the interior of the Himalayas is its architecture, language, worship rituals, and autonomous administrative system. The unique geographical location of Malana has enabled it to preserve its biodiversity and it is an ecological haven.
Malana is connected to Kullu by three mountain passes – it can be reached from Parbati Valley crossing over the 3180 meters Rashol Pass and via Naggar over the 3600 meters beautiful Chanderkhani Pass. For the outsiders, there is a long list of do’s and don’ts to be followed in the village. The people are friendly but outsiders are told to keep their distance and not to touch anything in the village. Malana is divided into two – upper Malana (dhara beda) and lower Malana (sor beda). Kanashi, the language of Malana, does not resemble any of the dialects spoken in its neighborhood but seems to be a mixture of Sanskrit and several Tibetan dialects. Two important festivals are celebrated in Malana. One called Badoh Mela is celebrated in August and the other called Fagdi Mela in February
OUTLINE ITINERARY
Day 1: Manali (2040 m) – Naggar (1800 m) Rumsu ( 2060 m). Drive 27 km, Trek Chaklani (3200 m), trek 6 hrs.
Day 2: Trek to Chandrakhani pass (3660 m) – Nagruni (2800 m), 5-7 hrs.
Day 3: Trek to Malana (2650 m). 5-6 hrs.
Day 4: Trek to valley floor 1 hr, drive to Jari – Manali. 4 hrs.
DETAILED ITINERARY
DAY 1: MANALI (2040 m) – Naggar (1800 m) – Rumsu ( 2060m) . DRIVE 27 km, TREK TO CHAKLANI BASE (3200m), 6 hrs
From Manali, we drive 21 km to Naggar on the left bank of Beas river. Which presents spectacular sights of villages all along the way. At Naggar, after crossing Naggar castle and Nicolas Roerich (Russian) art gallery, continue to drive to Rumsu (2060m) And start trek at this point. A gentle climb through apple orchrds to the lovely village of Rumsu. Easy climb through the forest of conifer to alpine meadows which offers a magnificient view Pir Panjal range and peaks rising above 6000m. Overnight camp.
View of Manali at the end of the valley up north
DAY 2: TREK TO CHANDRAKHANI / CHANDERKHANI PASS (3660m) – NAGRUNI (2800m), 5-7 hrs
Leaving camp we trek along the ridge leads us to pass. Its approx 1-2 hrs gentle climb to pass. Numbers of stone pillars can be found at pass mainly an offering by a villager to their deities. From pass an impressive view towards North Beas River valley, to the East Malana glacier and numbers of peaks rising above 6000m, towards South Parbati River valley. We continue our trek along the ridge to our next camp at Nagruni.
Stone pillars at the top of Chanderkhani pass
North East view of peaks in Lahaul from Chanderkhani pass
View of Chanderkhani pass & Parvati valley peaks from Khanpari Tibba 4025m
DAY 3: TREK TO MALANA (2650 m). 5-6 hrs.
Today leaving Nagruni we descend slowly through thich pine forest to Malana village. Arriving at Malana visit meet locals and must not forget to follow the instruction given at shops, temple and in around. Overnight camp outside of the village.
Malana magic valley
DAY 4: TREK TO SHORT BEFORE MALANA DAM 1:30 hr, DRIVE TO JARI – KASOL – VISIT MANIKARAN -MANALI. 4 hrs.
We take the old Malana trail to the valley floor. Steep descent to road and drive to Jari – Manali.
PREVIOUS NAGGAR – MALANA TREK
Naggar – Chandrakhani – Malana – Kasol
“The team was very hospitable and I had an amazing experience trekking with them. Everything was very well organized for us and customized to our capacity and requirement. They did everything to make our trek the most comfortable possible. The tents and equipment, sleeping bags etc. were clean and good. The food was amazing, we literally got 3 course meal especially the dinner after a long days trek was very comforting. The guide and porters were all very responsible and good. I would definitely use & recommend their services travellers in this area.”
Surbhi S & group of 4 – NEW DELHI – 31 August – 4 September
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MALANA RASOL KASOL – OUTLINE ITINERARY
Day 1: Manali (2040 m) – Naggar (1800 m) Rumsu ( 2060 m). Drive 24 km, Trek Chaklani (3200 m), trek 6-7 hrs.
Day 2: Trek to Chandrakhani pass (3660 m) – Nagruni (2800 m), 5-7 hrs.
Day 3: Trek to Malana (2650 m). 5-6 hrs.
Day 4: Trek to Rasol pass (3250m) – Rasol (2400m), 6-7 hrs
Day 5: Trek to Kasol (1600m), 5 -6 hrs. drive to Manali 3 hrs.